I reviewed the VECY’s CR60 car refrigerator / freezer. It is a 60 L wheeled cooler with built in dual zone compressor heat pump.  It has a dual zone control panel that can maintain temperatures between 68F down to -4F, and is powered by 12-24 volts DC. (It also includes an AC adapter to power it from 120-240v AC.)

You can watch my 5 minute summary review here:

(I also have a 30 minute long full review…but unless you are REALLY interested…the summary review gives you all you need to know.)

If you would prefer to read your review, here are the relevant details:

It draws a maximum of 60 watts, but typically only 30 watts when running. To maintain freezing temperatures  (-4 F set point, measured around -1F) on the right hand side for 24 hours it used 640 watt hours over the 24 hour period.

To refrigerate (the entire interior) at 34F over a 24 hour period it drew 180 watt hours.

This power draw is only a little more than the much smaller VECY’s CR18 fridge.

It appears that the entire CR35, CR50, and CR60 line use all the same components, with only the height of the plastic changing, so I expect this review to apply to all 3 models in the line.

The unit has a magnetic valve so that it can direct the cooling power of the compressor to either the left (refrigerator) compartment, or the right (freezer) compartment (but not both at the same time).  I found that it would favor the fridge side until it hit the refrigeration set point, and then switch over to cooling the freezer side.

The interior is divided by a removable panel, and there is a (magnetic?) sensor so that when the panel is removed, the control panel switches over to single zone operation.

My two complaints about the unit are that 1) heat can leak from the fridge into the freezer through the removable panel, so that if you set the fridge to 34F and the freezer to -4 F, the fridge compartment will go below the set point and potentially freeze items. Compounding this heat flow issue, is the fact that 2) the fridge temperature display will NOT show a temperature lower than the set point, even if the temperature in the compartment is going lower, so you may be freezing things without a warning from the temperature displayed on the control panel.

However, if you have a lot of thermal mass in the fridge side, it is likely that the heat loss to the freezer side (especially if you don’t set it to the lowest possible temperature) would be slow enough to not matter in normal operation. (Also there is a definite height based temperature gradient, so if you keep your lettuce near the top of the fridge you should be fine….)

I verified that at the -4F setting, the freezer was able to keep ice cream very hard (I measured temperatures down to -2F inside). A freezer setting of 10F would keep ice cream soft, but not runny, but does still result in a dish of water freezing in the adjacent fridge compartment.

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