Ego Nexus Escape – What I wish I knew before buying

I bought the Ego Nexus escape because Ego gave me a $25 off coupon and I have a lot of Ego batteries from my yard equiptment. I wouldn’t pay full price for it.

 

The Nexus escape is a   small 150 watt (max) SQUARE WAVE inverter that plugs into the top of Ego Arc Lithium batteries, that also provides 2 USB charging ports. Ego Nexus Escape (PAD1500) Amazon (Affiliate) link: https://amzn.to/2Z6qKBn

Great for charging USB devices, or powering small loads where the square wave power isn’t an issue (motors on fans buzz, but most power supplies such as for laptops, routers, etc work fine). The 150 watt inverter will shut down if the load ever goes above 150 watts, as it has zero surge capability over the listed 150 watts.

It will also go into a “low power shutdown” mode to save power if the draw is less than 4 watts, so it is not suitable for running very small loads unattended.

As a small 150 watt inverter, it is serviceable for most small loads, but I really wish it had either a modified sine wave or true sine wave output to make it compatible with more AC devices. Also, having a 300 watt surge capacity for a second or two would have made it much more usable.

Overall, I think the Ego Nexus Power Station is a much better (if much more expensive) product as it has a true sine wave power output, and a lot more capacity.

Whole house solar system: Solar-thermal pool heater, or electric?

Question: “We’re getting whole house solar soon. We are wondering if we should get an electric or solar pool heater?”

To answer this question, I want to keep my terminology clear. I will use “solar-thermal panels” to refer to the rubber roof-mounted panels that have pool water pumped through them for traditional solar pool heaters. I will use “PV solar panels” to refer to photovoltaic panels that generate electricity directly from sunlight. Any pool heater powered by electricity must be a heat pump pool heater (a electric resistance heating element is incredibly inefficient when compared to a heat pump).

There are a lot of trade-offs involved in this question.

First efficiency: Using the sun’s heat to directly heat pool water (as with pumping pool water through a rubber solar-thermal collector on your roof) is about 80% efficient (80% of sunlight is converted to heat in the water). Commercial PV solar panels are only 18-22% efficient converting sunlight to electricity. If you use a restive water heater, this gives you 18-22% efficiency overall, which is bad. HOWEVER, if you use a heat pump electric pool heater, the heat pump uses that 18-22% electricity to move heat from the air into your pool with a 3-4X advantage, so your overall heating efficiency is actually directly comparable to a solar-thermal water heater! [The same math applies to domestic electric hot water heating…hybrid heat pump water heaters are good, traditional resistance elements are not a very efficient use of electricity.]

Second, cost: A heat pump pool heater costs money. So do the extra PV solar panels to power it (plus the up-sized inverter as your PV solar system is larger). I suspect the extra money will be slightly more than a $5,000 solar-thermal water heater arrangement, but it may not be TOO much more. It all comes down to how many kWh you plan on spending to heat your pool. (A heat pump pool heater takes as much power as a whole house AC, it’s basically an AC unit in reverse…pulling heat from the outside air and putting it into your pool.) So this is not an inconsiderable cost.

A 100,000 BTU heat pump pool heater uses 5,000 watts (5kW) when running, or 5kWh per hour of heating. If you wanted to run your pool heater for 5-6 hours every day, you would need to add 5kWh of PV panels to your roof to offset this electric usage. At $2.40 per watt installed, an extra 5,000 watts of PV panels would cost you $12,000!

However, if you only run the pool heater for a few months out of the year and are on a net-metering arrangement, you need to install fewer PV panels, as PV panels produce power all year round. So if you plan on running your pool heater for 5 hours a day only 4 months out of the year, you could get away with installing only 1/3 as many PV panels, or 1.6kW at a cost of $4,000. [You may also have to buy a $2,500 heat pump pool heater if you don’t have one already.]

Third, complexity: A solar-thermal hot water heater requires extra pipes from your pool pump up to the panels on the roof of your house and has a lot of potential leak points. Extra PV solar panels on your roof and a larger inverter don’t add much to the complexity of a whole house PV solar system, just makes it larger, and PV panels have very minimal maintenance issues in the future. An electric heat pump pool heater does require plumbing into your pool pump, but is physically located with the rest of the pool pump equipment, and doesn’t require water pipes up to the roof. Keeping the “roof system” separated from the pool system by electric wires as opposed to water pipes makes “plumbing” easier.

Fourth, roof space: Do you have enough roof space to support all the energy you want to use? Solar-thermal pool heating panels and PV panels used with an electric heat pump pool heater use roughly the same roof surface area for the same amount of heat in the pool. The PV solar panels cost more than rubber pool solar-thermal heat collectors, but have to be replaced less frequently. Heating a pool takes a lot of energy regardless of if you are doing it via photovoltaic or solar-thermal collection. Check with your solar installer to see if you have enough sun facing roof space for everything you want to do.

Fifth, ease of use / flexibility: An electric pool heater allows you to heat the pool whenever you want (cloudy weather, nights). You may need to pay the utility company for your extra use of electricity in bad solar weather, but you have the option to do that if you want. If you install extra PV solar panels to support an electric pool heater, you have the option to NOT run the pool heater and bank extra electricity, which can be used by any electric appliance in the house or an electric vehicle.

[A solar-thermal pool heater prevents you from spending extra money heating your pool at nights or in cloudy weather, but may slightly increase the power needed to run your pool pump unless you actively switch the roof mounted solar heat collectors out of the system when not needed.]

Of course, the cheapest option is to not heat your pool at all.

Moto X4 power button failure (part 2)

Remember how my Moto x4 had a power button failure after 10 months of ownership? Well, the replacement x4 phone that Motorola shipped me had its power button fail in the same way after only a month of usage. Luckily, I still have a month of warranty coverage, and their customer support representative again waived the $24.99 “Premium” fee to ship me a replacement phone before I ship them back the broken one (with a $200 deposit.)

However, I’m not at all impressed with the hardware quality of the power button on this model. I think I will have to just set the screen timeout to a small number of seconds and stop turning the phone off with the power button. (It already has a swipe to activate feature so you don’t need to use the power button to turn it on…)

DIY Thermo-Electric Cooler prototype

I have been playing around with building a DIY Thermo-Electric cooler. Yes, I know the TEC’s are horribly inefficient when compared to a compressor based refrigerator. And I know you can buy basic TEC micro-fridges for $20-$50 online.   We have a camping van that has a small odd sized hole that doesn’t quite fit any of the commercially available car/van coolers, so I’m investigating building my own. This post will discuss prototype number 3.

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Moto X4 power button failure

I’ve had a Moto X4 phone since November of 2018 (I bought it new from Google Fi) and recently the power button started failing intermittently.   Reading forums on the internet, having power buttons fail on phones is now a “thing”. Apparently phone manufacturers are cheeping out on the physical buttons to save money? Seems like a bad part to have fail.

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A certification mark isn’t everything…

I recently purchased a WorkZone Wall Mount Power Board (with detachable tool holder) as an impulse buy at my local Aldi (WorkZone is the Aldi brand for household tools). I needed more light, I could use a power strip, and I liked the fact that each outlet had its own switch so that I could turn on/off battery chargers depending upon if I was using them or not.
workzone wall mount powerstrip with lights and detachable tool holder

The lights worked well, it included a nice template for placing the screws to match the slots in the back and everything was going well until I tried plugging in one of my battery chargers. The outlets were super stiff on the first plug in (not unusual for new outlets), but then they just started to feel dangerously loose. They didn’t appear to grip the plugs well or make good electrical contact. For a device rated at 1875 watts, this was concerning to me.

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Installing Garage Door Slide Locks

My garage has four doors (two in the front, and two in the back) which gives a lot of cross-ventilation potential, but unfortunately some of the doors had the slide-locks installed incorrectly, such that there was no available slots to lock the doors in a “slightly open” position to let air circulate.   They also only had one lock per door, so I rectified that situation by adding a 2nd slide lock to the other side of each door, and moving a few of the original slide locks so that two of the doors can be locked with a 2″ gap below them.   I spent less than $30 for all four slide locks and a box of self drilling sheet metal screws, so it was a relatively quick and inexpensive improvement.

DIY 4×8 Floating Dock section

My last 8×8 floating dock section was built from mostly salvage materials. I’m slowly adding sections until it reaches shore. Unfortunately, I can’t use the cylindrical foam floats as the base of walkways, as they will rotate/spin in the water. (Also, I have plans for the other 2 cylindrical foam sections….)

Two sections of floating dock on lake

So this 4×8′ section of floating dock uses two commercial roto-molded dock float sections (48x24x16″), which drove the price up to around $680 in materials. (But I have a decent number of composite deck boards and hardware left for the next (3×12′) section I plan on building.   [Yes, every section of my dock will have a different width, deal with it.]

 

 

 

TaoTronics LED Floor Lamp indicator light circuit bend

I bought a TaoTronics LED Floor Lamp from Amazon which has three different color modes (half the LED’s are warm white, the other half are cool white, and you can pick either or both banks together) and allows you to dim the light (which might be needed, as it’s quite bright at full power). Because it uses LEDs, it only draws 10-12 watts for a lot of light output, and you can convert it to a desk lamp just by unscrewing the two extension tubes. Overall I’ve been very happy with it.

The only complaint I had was that the standby indicator light that lights up the power switch to make it easy to find at night was white instead of red, and slightly brighter than I liked. (Most people wouldn’t mind at all, I’m especially sensitive to light at night…)

So I opened the control panel of the lamp by unscrewing four screws in the back and pulling the front piece off. There is a steel C channel that goes from the purple tube screw at the bottom to the gooseneck at the top which I had to take out (3 screws at the top and bottom) to get access to the circuit board.

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