Debranding the Urban Commuter

After building a lightweight urban commuter out of pieced-together secondhand components, I purchased a lighter weight, used, and inexpensive single ring crankset for it. After installing the bright and shiny new crankset, I realized that the bike was actually starting to look like it might be worth something (despite the fact that I retained the 10 year old plastic MTB platform pedals). To fix this, I hit the laser engraved brand name (ProWheel OUNCE, not exactly an expensive brand, but your average bike thief may not know that) with a steel file. While I had the file out I decided to remove all of the other possibly expensive sounding brands from the bike, which mostly consisted of logo filling and decal scraping. In addition to hiding the brand, filling the metal parts instantly drops the potential resale value, and may even save you a few grams of weight depending upon how vigorously you file things down. This is more “urban stealth” than full on urban camouflage, but I may go buy some faux rust antiquing paint for the full effect later.

Crankset, before and after having the logo/brand filed offFrame before/after decal was removed

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Lightweight Urban Communter

This is my new lightweight urban commuter (a.k.a. MARTA bike). I purchased a used carbon fiber frame, and a used mountain bike frame that had been made into a single speed road bike and combined all the parts (plus a few extra) into a lightweight single speed bike. The frame is designed for road tires, and the clearance is very tight, so I am limited to a thin road tire on the back.

The mountain bike frame came with a standard MTB crankset, and I’m using the middle gear (34 teeth) to a 16 tooth rear cog (4.3 gain ratio). This combination makes it easy to get to the MARTA station without too much effort (don’t want to arrive at work all sweaty). I have also experimented with using the larger (42 tooth) sprocket and a 15 tooth rear cog for a 5.7 gain ratio, but that combination only works in the winter when overheating isn’t an issue. Because it’s a commuter bike, I added a LED headlight (held on with a hose clamp) and a detachable RavX Super Sight bicycle taillight. The running weight is 18.6 lbs, or 21.2 lbs when I carry a U-Lock.

Parts Details:
Vitus Plus Carbone (Carbon Fiber frame) 55cm 21.6″ (1988)
Vitus Dural 979 aluminum fork, Cinteli Stem, 26.4 Cinelli Bars
Front Wheel: Ritchey HB 575 Rim (26×1.0 tire)
Rear Wheel: Ritchey Hub ZER system, AERO OCR wheel 6061 T-6 Alloy
ETRTO: 622-14, Tire: Vlittoria Zalfiro 25-622 700x25c
Shimano Ultegra 6600 brake on back, “Schwin Approved” calipers on front, Tektro Reverse Alloy TT Brake Levers
Shimano Bottom Bracket, Square Taper 68mmx118mm UN54
RavX Rear Flasher, Front LED light

Mysterio Bracers, wooden panel

With lots of help from my friend Christian (Check out his comic!), I got a template made for my Mysterio bracer panels. The panel is actually assembled out of two layers for an extra 3D effect. Layer one is the bottom, with the “circle-hashing”, and the other layer is the frame around it. The small green circle is pre-existing marks on the craft plywood that will be covered when I paint the bracers once they are fully assembled. In this picture you can see the different laser cut parts that I will be replicating (8x) to make two bracers. The power level settings for this particular panel were 15% speed, 100% power, 2500 Frequency on a 40 watt laser engraver from Epilog.

Mysterio Costume – Wearing the Sphere on a Cowboy Collar

Wearing a mysterio spherecowboy collar with the collar cut off the back and moved to the front
I purchased a McDavid Cowboy Collar (A piece of football protective gear) and cut the collar part off the back and moved it to the front to help support the sphere. The whole thing fits well over my shoulders, and with the modification of moving the collar to the front and sewing a few magnets onto the shoulders, it holds the sphere relatively well. I used black nylon thread to sew the ring magnets and the collar piece onto the base unit, and I also used GOOP flexible contact cement to add strength to the front collar part. Because the collar part is spanning the front, the laces on front are no longer strictly needed to close the gap. I made it just large enough to fit over my head (with a bit of bending). My plan is to rig the front part of my cape to fit between the sphere and the top of the collar (using the collar to hold it up) to disguise the join between the sphere and collar and hide the collar entirely. (Luckily, this is 100% consistent with Mysterio’s costume.)

CPU upgrade on eMachines EL1300G-02w

I am using a EL1300G-02W computer as a HTPC using MythTv.

It would play back 720p HD video just fine with the original processor, but couldn’t quite commercial flag new recordings in real-time while also watching a live feed. [This wasn’t a big issue, as I very rarely watch new recordings live.]

Even though it works working perfectly fine as a MythTV box with the original processor, I had been keeping an eye open on Ebay for a replacement X2 (dual core) processor for the AM2 socket.

I was limited to CPU’s that produced 45W or less of power, which basically means the “e” line ( 4450e, 5050e, 4850e, BE-2400, 3250e). These types of processors had been selling for $50-60, but then I lucked out and found an an AMD Athlon X2 BE-2400 2.3 GHz Processor which I was able to get cheaper than average ($32 w/ shipping!).
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Mysterio Bracers – Paper Prototype


Mysterio bracers/gauntlets model from paper
The photo to the left is my model for what I am trying to re-create. The photo on the right is my first prototype. What’s that you say, it looks like you just cut up a few pieces of paper and taped them together? Well, yes, yes I did. But I verified that they make the correct shapes, in the correct size, and soon I will cut them out of craft plywood using the same measurements. But first, I have to trick one of my graphically inclined friends into doing the circle style crosshatching. The curved hooks can not be done out of 2D material (paper/plywood) so I am making a plywood hook shape as the skeleton that I will fill out with modeling clay or plasticine to give the (8) hooks a curved 3D appearance.

Mysterio Sphere – Rim Reinforcement

As you may have guessed from this post, I spent another Saturday cutting the bottom(s) off of glass sphere(s). Yes, plural. I broke my replacement sphere before I was a quarter of the way around. This was due to one of the following reasons: 1) I had placed packing tape over the blade path, hoping to reinforce the glass. or 2) my tile saw blade holding bolt had loosened. Regardless, I cracked the sphere quite well.

So, I moved on to my backup replacement sphere (number 3 for those of you keeping track at home). I had already figured out that sharpie ink will NOT stick to glass when sprayed with water from a tile-saw, so I continued to use masking tape to mark where my cut should be on sphere number 3. I also placed packing tape on the non-cut side of the masking tape, as I was impressed with how well it had contained the breakage from sphere 2. (I plan on using packing tape to cover a large portion of the inside of the sphere (except the viewport) as a poor-man’s tempered glass substitute. )
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Mysterio voice effects


I spent an hour assembling an MK171 digital voice changer kit from Ramsey Electronics for my Mysterio costume. The plan is to place the microphone on a wire inside the glass sphere with the speaker mounted outside so that I can communicate. I will probably have a head operated button inside that gives me push-to-talk capabilities. I picked the voice changer kit because I felt it would give me more options than a simple amplifier.
Although the voice changer kit only cost $15, I still have to purchase an external speaker to use with it.

Depending upon the acoustics of the sphere, I may also need a microphone outside with an earphone wire running inside to hear people talking to me.

I spent a much larger amount of money on an LED strobe light kit, which will hopefully drive flashing lights from Mysterio’s cape clasps or sphere.

Breaking the Sphere….or…travels to yuppieville

Sphere broken into multiple partsI purchased a football “Cowboy Collar” which I think will be a good way to mount and carry the glass sphere. Unfortunately, I got excited when it arrived, and put it inside the hole in my (previously cracked) sphere before I used epoxy putty to reinforce the rim. Digression: An egg is quite strong to pressure applied to the outside. To break it, you want to create a crack in the shell, and pull the crack apart. This is exactly what I did by sawing a hole in the bottom of my sphere, and then placing a (slightly compressed) cowboy collar inside of it. CREAK! The linear crack I had created when cleaning up the edge of the cut with the tile saw extended itself all the way to the other side of the sphere. At this point, I was considering switching my costume to that of Mysterio in Friendly Neighborhood Spider-Man #11-13, where his sphere gets cracked.

After searching the Internet for more glass spheres, I finally called the Pottery Barn main telephone number and was told the item (SKU number 702 1991) had been discontinued and it was not available for order over the Internet or phone. But she did mention that one of their stores still had some stock, and it turned out to be in Atlanta!
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